Stratasys is the biggest name in the 3D printing industry. Their FDM printer family consists of a range of 3D printers with excellent performance, which are usually used in schools and businesses. One of the drawbacks of using these Stratasys 3D printers is that it is often difficult to reuse the build tray. The build tray is a tray for machine printing or \"build\" 3D models. Stratasys recommends replacing the tray after each print, which can be very expensive and wasteful. I have found some techniques on the Internet, including cleaning pallets with a lot of chemicals to dissolve the stuck raft material ( Raft is the bottom of the 3D printing model). Other methods include unremitting polishing on the tray of each print. It\'s labor-intensive, dirty and inefficient. As a STEM middle school teacher in a public school district, I was motivated to look for an efficient, economical, easy way to reuse my building pallet. Keep reading or watching my videos and learn about my three-step approach to building pallets with Stratasys. In order to reuse the build tray, you need the following materials. 1. To get started, you need a clean and unused build tray. I tested this method on Mojo, uPrint and Dimension 3D printers. I showed the Mojo printer in this Instructable. 2. Glue StickI is using the basic Elmers Glue stick. 3. The belt is not a masking belt. Transfer tape is usually used for vinyl decal applications and is thinner and more heat resistant than masking tape. Masking tape and painter tape are also thick enough to cause Z An axis error occurs when the printer completes the automatic calibration process. I purchased the R tape class 4075 RLA high viscosity compliance series from Beacon Graphics in New Jersey (see link below). I would recommend buying a roll that is wider than your print bed so it is easy to align without accidentally losing the edges. For 5 \"Mojo build tray, I use 5 with the actual width of 5\" to transfer the tape volume. 5 \"R tape transfer tape for Beacon graphics4. Apply a card or scraper to apply transfer tape and you need a rigid applicator of some type. A stiff card, a stiff blade or scraper can work perfectly. I have used a plastic vinyl applicator scraper that can also be used from Beacon Graphics (link below). 4 \"squeeze the white applicator. Ice stick or tongue press, but certainly not the least, you need something to press the tape into the groove of the build tray. The ice stick or tongue stick works perfectly. You can also use the scraper or apply the edge of the card. The first step of the 3-step process is to generously apply glue to the build tray. Applying glue under the transfer glue band can form a strong bond and will not create bubbles. I usually apply glue in the X and Y directions to make sure I don\'t miss any of the locations. You also want to apply glue on the front, left and right. When I tested without glue, I noticed that the transfer tape would be in Print, resulting in uneven sitting of the raft. This usually results in a catastrophic print failure. After building the tray with a uniform glue coating, it is time to apply the transfer tape. Apply for a 3 first \"- 6 \"bring to your desktop and we will use the extra bands in the next steps. Use the strap attached to the table as a hinge in your non- Then insert the tray under the tape and arrange it. This is a wider volume that makes the alignment process easier, reducing the chance of losing the tray when applying the tape. After alignment, place the tape on the tray and slowly apply the tape to the surface of the tray with the applicator scraper in your main hand. Here, there is no need to win the game in a hurry, slowly and slowly. Once applied, cut off the roll and the excess tape is left from the handle again. Then cut the tape along the side of the handle and leave the extra tape again. Fold the tape over the front, left and right edges where you apply the glue. Finally, press the tape into the groove of the build tray using the Popsicle. It\'s time to plug in our glue now. and-tape- Our 3D printer has a built-in coated tray. This is also where the extra tape hanging on the edge works. Fold the excess tape so it doesn\'t get in the way, then slide the build tray and lock it into the metal print bed inside the printer. Once locked, wrap the extra tape around the build tray, seal any edges and look like this. Next, use your finger or scraper to enter and push the tape around all edges and seams. Any exposed edges will be exposed to hot air around the fan, which may cause the tape to peel off prematurely. This is also a good time to run the scraper in the construction of the tray surface to ensure that the tape is still well bonded with the tray. Finally, apply more glue on the tape. All you need to do is apply glue in the area where your model will be printed, but applying more glue than needed won\'t hurt you. No need to apply glue on the edge of the tray or on the handle, just apply glue on the surface. When the print is finished, it\'s time to remove the tray. The first step is to peel off the extra tape wrapped around the print bed. Note: Be very careful with all metal parts. You may want to have the door open for a minute or two to let the hot air escape the printer before entering the room. Then, after taking out the extra tape, the build tray should slide out. After coming out of the printer, simply pop the print off the tape and remove all the tapes from the tray. You may need to bend the tray a little, or peel off the tape part depending on how much glue you apply. After removing all the tapes from the tray, you can use it again! After 20- 50 printing will form a thick layer of white glue. This layer will eventually lead to Z-Axis error. Don\'t be afraid. after soap, 20- 50 print, just wash the glue layer with warm water and soap. After the tray is dry, you can continue to use it again. About 200 photos, I have been using the same tray with no problem. Over the past few months, I have saved a total of $300 for my department. I also hope you find this simple method useful. Thanks for reading and happy printing!